How to Install a Reverse Osmosis System? The Answer is Here!

You’ve been looking into the purification of water options for some time, and, after a lot of study and thought you’ve bought an reverse osmosis unit to install in your house.

You may think that the tough phase is done – but wait! You’ll still need to set up the system, which is a bit of a hassle.

If you’ve come across this guide I’m going to presume that you’ve purchased an undersink RO filter. It is the most well-known kind of reverse osmosis device available. It unlike the countertop versions it requires an complicated installation.

Don’t get too intimidated however, once you’re aware of what you’re doing , you’ll see that installing a reverse-osmosis system is fairly simple. I’ll provide the procedure for installation step-by-step for the most common RO device below. Make sure you read your user’s manual for more details since different systems could differ.

How do you install an Reverse Osmosis System

Step 1 – Prepare your installation

Before purchasing an RO system it is essential to ensure it’s a good fit for the kitchen sink.

Utilize a tape measure take measurements of your available space. Then, compare the measurements with the dimensions of the model you’re interested in. It’s possible to consider shifting some of the bigger objects under the sink to a different space if you can.

Also, make sure the you’ve got enough room for the connection to a specific faucet. The majority of reverse osmosis water filter have their own faucet, which could require drilling and fitting onto the countertop or sink.

If you are looking at RO systems available for purchase you might notice that some models include the installation kits. The kit contains the equipment and parts that are typically required to put together and install the system. This can make it easier to visit your local hardware store in the future.

Step 2 – Setup the RO System

Once your reverse osmosis filter arrives, take it out of its container and take it out of the plastic wrap. Before you do anything, look over the system to ensure that the connections to the filter and the components match the pipes under the sink.

If you require an adapter tee for connecting the unit to your cold water source you can purchase one at your local hardware store prior to you start the installation process. Make sure that the tee you purchase is compatible with the particular under-sink supply as well as the R.O. feed line.

Make sure that your drain pipes as well as water lines do not require moving – If they do then you may need to contact an specialist.

If the under-sink space appear to be not suitable, don’t worry. It is possible to put the plumbing system into a different space, such as your garage or basement or even in a cabinet adjacent to it and connect it to the water line that will eventually go under the sink. Of course, this process requires more effort, and you might require additional tubing because of the greater distance that is required.

Step 3 – Installation of the Faucet

If the reverse osmosis device includes an outlet (it might be referred to as”spigot” in your user manual) “spigot” in the user’s guide) the first step is to set it up. It’s recommended to finish this first, since it will mean that you’ll be able to easily reach the piping underneath the counter, before you fill your space by installing an RO unit.

It could be that your sink has a knock-out opening making it easier to set up the faucet. If not, you’ll have to make a hole into the sink.

Utilize the 1/4″ drill bit to create the hole first, change to the 1/2 inch drill bit in order to create the holes larger. You can also use a step bit. For drilling through cast iron, granite, porcelain, stainless steel, or other man-made substances requires specialized bits and expertise.

This could be the perfect opportunity to speak with an expert if you’re uncomfortable with your expertise or capabilities. Unintentional mistakes can cost you dearly. Be sure to pick the best location for the faucet installation at least near the faucet you already have and allowing it to empty into the sink, and allowing enough space to rotate.

The waterline (included in the RO set-up) then connect it with the air gap of your faucet and ensure it goes through the faucet’s opening Then, attach the base of the faucet to the counter.

Step 4 – Configure the Storage Tank

If your system is equipped with water storage tanks then follow this next step.

First, connect the tank to the faucet. Use plumber’s tape to secure the connections and stop leaks. Screw the connector of your faucet into the tank storage container, tightening it just.

Put your tank of storage in a location that is suitable for under-sink storage.

Since drinking water will be retained in the storage tank once it has gone through an RO system It is logical to place the tank next to your faucet, but ideally directly beneath.

Step 5 – Install The RO System

If you’ve not already done so done so, take a look at the wall mount and make the location beneath the sink in your kitchen, making sure that the marks are in a straight line.

Remember that many units must be positioned above the cabinet’s floor so that you can remove and replace your filters without having to remove everything from under the sink.

Install the wall mount in position and then attach the reverse osmosis filters directly to the wall mount.

Step 6 – Fill the Storage Tank

A good option is to pre-fill the reverse osmosis tank to ensure that there’s sufficient pressure to check for leaks. This will also make it simpler in flushing your post-filter prior to use.

To fill your tank prior to refilling just join the line which will eventually join the opening of the RO device directly into the tank.

The tank should be filled with water to drink, then switch off your pressure by closing the valve on your tank.

Then you can disconnect your feed pipe from valve in the tank.

Step 7 – Connect the Water Line

Once you’ve got your primary system in place, it’s a the matter of connecting everything.

The water line that supplies the reverse osmosis system should be connected to the cold water supply line.

The procedure for connecting the tubing will depend on the conditions under the sink in your kitchen. Most reverse osmosis units come with an adapter for half-inch that will work with your faucet’s half-inch flexible line.

This is where you may need to utilize an adapter tee it’s if the line for water supply and the tubing of the filter aren’t compatible. Consult the manual for further details.

Step 8 – Setup the Drain Saddle

Drain saddles connect the reverse-osmosis system for filtration and the drain. It lets wastewater be discharged through the drain line that is already placed beneath the sink.

It is recommended to be careful not to install this valve on top of the J- or P-trap within the drainage line. It is recommended to place the component on a horizontal line of water to limit noise during operation.

While you’re there examine the condition of the drain pipe. If it’s damaged, I would highly recommend purchasing an entirely new pipe prior to connecting any tubing.

Once you’ve decided on the best location for installation, you’ll need to drill through the pipe’s top with a 1/4″ drill bit.

Connect it to pipe by anchoring it to the pipe. Make sure that the hole you drilled and the drain saddle hole come aligned correctly.

The water will have the ability to pass from the drain saddle to the drain line once the reverse Osmosis system is operating.

Step 9 – Add Additional Tubing

After your system has been hooked up to the water supply line you’ll have to connect the rest of the tubing, including ones that connect the reverse osmosis unit to the tank for storage, and through the storage tank and to the faucet.

Tubing’s dimensions can vary according to the type of product you purchase and so make sure to read your user’s manual thoroughly to ensure you’re correctly connecting it.

Step 10 – The Final Set Up

The RO unit is in use, however, there are a few tiny things that you’ll need accomplish before you’re able drink water from the system:

  • The first step is to check all of your connections and fittings for leaks.
  • The system should increase pressure by closing the ball valve and check again for leaks.
  • Then, you can close the valve on the tank and let the run water from the faucet for five minutes, and then look for leaks.
  • Lastly, leave your RO tank filled up with water, usually for about 2 hours. Take it out the tank, but do not drink the water. If you don’t want throw it away, use it to water your plants.
  • It is recommended to repeat the procedure a second time and let the tank get empty and then fill it up again but not using the water you have produced.
  • The water purified that is filled you tank on the third occasion is clean and is ready to be taken pleasure in.

Components of the Reverse Osmosis System

  • RO ModuleIts RO module is the primary element and houses membranes, pre-filters, and post-filter. A bracket is included so that they can be positioned underneath the sink or the basement.
  • Angle Stop ValveAngle stop valve angle stop valve connects to the cold water line to provide drinking water for the RO system. It allows you to easily stop the flow of water during the process of servicing the unit.
  • Pre-Filter #1Melt Blown polypropylene filter eliminates larger particles, like dirt, rust, and sediment.
  • The Pre-Filter # 2 (And 3 If Applied)The 10 micron carbon block is a great way to remove the chemical and chlorine contaminants from the feed water , and safeguards the RO membrane.
  • Automatic Shut-Off ValveAutomated shutoff valve shuts off when the tank that stores the water is full, and turns off water supply in order to conserve water. The valve is activated when the tank pressure is at least 2/3 of the pressure of the feed.
  • Reverse Osmosis MembraneThin film composite water filter membrane decreases the insoluble minerals, salts, as well as metals. Through the process, all the harmful compounds are likely to be separated through the membrane from water, and then the contaminants can be flushed away to the drain.
  • Post-FilterAn activated coconut carbon post filter is available to give the last “polish” and to eliminate smells, tastes and give excellent tasting water.
  • Bladder TankThe Bladder Tank contains RO-purified water that you can use any time you’d like.
  • Faucet for Drinking Water A RO Faucet can be used to dispensate clean water at the time you require it.
  • Clamp ClampThe sewer saddle valve is connected to the drain, allowing it to drain waste water from it. RO system.
  • TubingTubing is vital as it connects all the RO components.
  • Quick-Connect Filter FittingsFittings with Quick Connect are used to make tubing connections that are needed. These fittings join by pushing the tubing through the fitting, overcoming some resistance until the tube reaches its bottom inside the fitting. Simply cut a clean line into your tubing and then gently insert your tubing to the point that it can not move any further. To make sure your tubing is a tight fit, simply pull back on the tubing and it will catch. Make sure you check for leaks to ensure that the connection is watertight. (see the figure 1).


The following tools might be required, based on the particular installation:

  • 3/8″ variable speed electric drill; (2,500 RPM is ideal in stainless steel)
  • 1/8″ 1/8″, 1/4″ 1/4″, 1/8″ and 1/2″ metal cutting drill bits
  • 1/8″ 1/8″, 1/4″ and 1/4″, 1/8″ and 1/2″ concrete drill bits (for porcelain sinks)
  • Phillips screw driver with head screw driver
  • 6″ adjustable wrench
  • Teflon tape and plastic tubing cutter
  • Hammer & Center punch

System position

Your RO system could be placed under a sink , or in the basement. Don’t install it in areas that are exposed to temperatures that are freezing. Connecting an ice maker to any other remote location may be considered if the connection can be made making use of greater than twelve” of tubing. Otherwise, an delivery pump might be required. Further runs are possible and a pump could be added later should it be required.

Guidelines for the placement of components are as the following:

  • FaucetIt should be positioned on or close to the sink area in the area where cooking or drinking water is needed. Two” rectangular surface needed to install the faucet if the existing hole isn’t accessible. The thickness of the surface must not surpass 1-1/4″ or an extension for the faucet (not provided) is required.
  • Bladder TankIt could be placed in a place that is practical, and within ten inches of the tap. The sink, under cabinets nearby or basement rafters can be great choices. Tanks that are full can be more than 30 pounds, so ensure that all shelving is secured. Bladder tanks can be placed either on the side, or raised.
  • RO UnitThe unit can be placed in either direction of the sink on the back of cabinets, or even inside the basement. Placing the unit on either the left or right-hand part of the cabinet underneath the sink will allow for better accessibility to the appliance during future maintenance.
  • Angle Filter Stop ValveThis is to provide the feed water connection to it. It is designed to provide a feed water connection to RO unit. Find this connection near as the RO unit as is possible. It connects to the top of the valve that shuts off cold water and the lower end of your riser tube which is connected between the shut-off valve for your cold water as well as the tap. Find out from your local dealer what alternative options can be utilized instead an angle stop adaptor in the event that it is not possible to install under the sink.
  • An Drain SaddleIt is used to create connections for waste water to the drain beneath the sink. This valve is made to fit over the typical 1 1/2″ OD drainpipe. The drain saddle valve must always be installed prior to (above) the P-trap, and on either the horizontal or vertical tailpiece. Do not place the drain saddle close to the garbage disposal to prevent clogging of the drain line with garbage.

System Preparation

Remove the shipping carton from the open, then remove components, and make sure to ensure that all components are included.

Installation Steps

The plumbing process must be completed according to the plumbing codes of your state or locality. Certain municipalities may require the installation by an approved plumber. Examine your local plumbing codes for more details.

  1. 1. Faucet InstallationIf the sink is equipped with an integrated sprayer, it could be removed for faucet installation. Pipe caps or plugs may be needed to seal the connection between the sprayer and the faucet or the sprayer may be attached under the sink.To create the faucet-mounting hole (if the sprayer hole or another existing hole isn’t being employed) Check below to ensure the drill won’t interfere with any other thing below. Two” smooth surface is needed and not greater than 1-1/4″ thickness.The faucet must be placed to drain into the sink, and the spout can rotate freely to make it easier. If the sink is equipped with an opening that will be used to accommodate the RO faucet it is not necessary to drill. Install the faucet.Installation methods that work with Porcelain, Enamel, Ceramic on Metal, or Cast Iron:Be sure to ensure that the porcelain is able to pass through into the base of the metal and avoid scratching or chipping.Procedures:
    • Mark the center of the mark with a punching the center for to drill the 1/4″ pilot hole.
    • Make sure to drill a pilot hole using porcelain masonry. stop when the metal is visible. (Use gentle pressure and slow speed)
    • Change the bit to an ordinary metal cutting bit for continued cutting the it. The porcelain’s surface.
    • Continue to increase the size of the pilot hole by using bigger masonry and cutting tools until the hole is about 1/2″.
    Installation instructions of stainless steel sinksProcedures:
    • Mark the center of the mark with a center punch to create the 1/4″ pilot hole.
    • Make the hole pilot.
    • Continue to expand hole using larger drill bits until it’s 1/2″.
    • Take care to clean sharp edges.
    2. Installing the FaucetTake the hardware off the shank with treads. The chrome base plate and the rubber washers move down the shank until they reach the body of the faucet.Threaded shank into the hole in the sink and then orient the faucet. From beneath the sink the lock washer is slid over and hex nut on the shank threaded by using an wrench.3. Angle Stop Valve as well as Tubing InstallAngle Stop Valve forms a simple and easy connection to the Angle Stop shut off of the cold water) and the top of a riser tube. It is a simple, easy connection. Angle Stop Valve has built-in shut-off, and also serves as the feed connection for reverse osmosis systems.Installation procedure:
  1. Shut off the cold water source with your angle stop switch beneath your sink.
  2. After closing off the valve, let off the pressure by opening the handle of your faucet to the cold side.
  3. Utilizing an adjustable wrench disconnect the riser tube using an adjustable wrench from the shut-off valve for cold water.
  4. Take the tubing off of the valve to allow room for John Guest angle stop valve.
  5. Connect the swivel part of the John Guest Angle Stop Valve to the threads of the shut-off for cold water. The connection should be made by hand.
  6. Attach the riser tube to female end of John Guest Angle Stop Valve and tighten with an wrench.
  7. Connect the 1/8″ tubing to the John Guest Fitting on the Angle Stop Valve and the outlet to RO unit. RO unit.

Flexible Riser Tubes:

Most riser tubes utilized today are made from flexible materials, like braided stainless steel, or braided plastic, or grey 3/8″ plastic tube. Flexible tubes are most straightforward to connect to using the John Guest Angle Stop Valve since the two” of additional space to accommodate the Faucet Adaptor can easily be fitted by bending this kind of riser. A riser tube that is shorter is not required.

Copper Riser Tubes

If the riser tube you have is made from copper, you have to make an angle in the copper in order to accommodate the two” of space required for the John Guest Angle Stop Valve. If the copper tube measures 3/8″ bent, the bend is easy to do with a hand.

This John Guest Angle Stop Valve operates using 3/8″ shut-off valves as well as riser tubes. In certain situations older plumbing, it is possible to use an older shut-off valve as well as riser tube.

In this situation it’s essential to either replace the riser tube and valve using new 3/8″ components, or make another connection to draw the water to the reverse osmosis process.

Any Alternatives? Yes. You can use T fittings, self-piercing valves, as well as faucet adaptors. They can be joint to the faucet as well as the riser tube’s top.

You can contact your supplier or installation expert to get additional assistance.

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